The Chenab (Chandrabhaga) River
The Chenab is believed to be the river mentioned in the Rigveda as Asikni and the Greek name Akesines is considered to be the Greek version of the Rigveda name. In Sanskrit literature and in some ancient inscriptions the name Chandrabhaga is also used to denote this river. The river rises from the mountains of Baralacha pass. The stream with its source on the south-eastern side of the pass is called Chandra and other one rising from the north-western side is called Bhaga. The name Sandobal given to the river by Ptolemy is believed to have been derived from the name Chandrabhaga.
These two sister branches meet at Tandi in Lahaul & Spiti district. After that the river is generally known as Chenab. Whether the word Chenab is an abbreviation by some etymological process of the word Chandrabhaga, is very much open to question and authorities like Moorcroft have, in fact, held the view that Chenab is Chin ab (water of China) which in other words mean the river of China. This name is supposed to have been given out of an ancient belief that the source of this river lay in China. Mr. Moorcroft had also gathered the information that originally the branch from the south-eastern slopes of Baralacha pass itself was called the Chandrabhaga and the other branch was originally called Suryabhaga, because its source is called Surya-dal. However, the name Suryabhaga is not used even by the
local people and the two headwaters are commonly known as Chandrabhaga. The total length of the course of the river through Chamba district is estimated to be 60 kms and its width is estimated to be 150 feet on an average.
Tandi onwards the river valley is somewhat open upto Mudgraon village after which it contracts to a narrow gorge with precipitous cliffs as far as Tindi where again there is a bit of an open expanse on the left bank for several kms From Tindi to Shour (in Pangi), which means a length of about 26 kms, the valley is wild and rugged. At Shour and at Purthi, six kms beyond, there are villages on the right bank and the valley again becomes narrow as far as Mindhal village on the left bank and Sach village on the right bank. From here onwards the valley spreads out and the river flows in a north-westerly direction through picturesque area past Killar and Dharwas where it leaves Pangi valley. It then enters Jammu & Kashmir through Paddar, Kishtwar and the outer periphery of Jammu and emerges on the plains of Akhnoor.
The river flows through Pangi valley for about 60 kms. The rise of water, which is drawn from melting snow, is gradual and steady, acquiring its greatest volume in July and August
The river Chandrabhaga after crossing the valley winds its way through lofty mountain ranges in Kashmir for about 320 kms before it reaches Akhnoor where it enters the plains. Next to the Sutlej, it is the largest and longest of the undivided Punjab (western and eastern Punjab in Pakistan and India respectively) rivers.
The fall is on the whole gradual and the current is strong and swift. The fall, according to Alexander Cunningham, is 34 feet per mile from Tandi to Kishtwar and 26 feet per mile from Kishtwar to Akhnoor before which it becomes navigable for boats and rafts.
Main tributaries of the Chenab (Chandrabhaga) in Pangi are the Karu and Saichu nallahs. These and other streams rise in the watersheds between Pangi and Zanskar and flow through extensive, well-wooded valleys. The Saichu nallah is fed by a number of tributaries, the chief among which are the Twan, Saichu and Chasak, which meet at Saichu village. The Mayar nallah is another main tributary which is in Udaipur subdivision of Lahaul & Spiti. It is somewhat longer than the Saichu nallah having a course of about 64 kilometers and contains a larger volume of water. It has an average
fall of 60 feet per mile near its junction with Chenab at Udaipur.
Several streams born of Zanskar range and its branches feed the river on the right bank. Saichu, Parmar, Kiryuni, Mahlu, Lujai and Sansari nallahs are worth mentioning. On the left bank, the Cheni nallah near Mindhal and Sach nallah near Killar are noticeable.
The natural condition of the riverbed does not admit of any changes in the well-contained course. The Chandrabhaga river flows in a gorge in rock-bound channel.
The waters of the Chenab (Chandrabhaga) are of grey colour all the summer owing to melting of snow in its numerous sources. The volume, generally speaking, is so great and the current in most places so deep that it cannot be forded in any part of its course. It contains many whirlpools and undercurrents. Moreover, avalanches fill up the narrow parts of the river during winters to such an extent that villagers cross from one side to the other over these snow bridges.
For crossing presently there is only one jhula or ghururu in village Findroo some 13 kms from Killar. Earlier at Shour there was a jhula which was one of its kind. Its length was 214 feet and it was quite high above the water. Suspension bridges exist at Killar, Purthi and Triloknath (Udaipur).
Floods
The Chenab knows occasional floods. Some of the mentionable are in the years 1951, 1955 and 1957. Within the district the river is not navigable to any extent at any place. Gold in small quantity is found in Chandrabhaga. A flood-like situation also arose in 1995 during which jhulas and bridges across Chandrabhaga were damaged specially Purthi (Ajog) bridge and FindparyTm/a.
Waterfalls and Streams
In the higher regions of permanent snow there are some small ice caves. Various streams and nallahs in high altitudes have their annual avalanches with almost unfailing regularity.
In almost the entire valley there are a number of natural water springs and small streams. All of them derive their volume of water from the snow-covered cliffs. These springs and streams are canalised
by the villagers and used both for domestic as well as irrigation purposes.
Pangi valley is full of streams and waterfalls of different sizes, volumes and heights. While streams are a source of water, waterfalls fill one with delight. They are found almost on all treks leading in and out of the valley.
Stream water is acknowledged as very good for health and is the only source of drinking water in the valley. For drinking and cooking, water is fetched in local water containers. Bathing and washing is done at the stream itself. Livestock is also taken to the springs directly. Some of these springs have been converted into modem water supply schemes.
The waters of river Chandrabhaga are used for floating timber sleepers to the plains. Besides this, no other benefit is availed by the people of the valley of this river. There are no fish in the river, the water being too cold. Gold in small quantities is reported in the Chandrabhaga but its extraction is not seen to be done anyvvhere.
There are beautiful side valleys in Pangi namely Sural, Saichu, Kumar-Parmar and Hudan. All these valleys are connected with Zanskar area of Ladakh through trek routes. These were also the earlier trade routes used by the local people to go to Zanskar where they practised barter trade. Many villages are situated in these sub-valleys. People with Mongolian features, called the Bhots, inhabit the villages at higher reaches. These villages are called the Bhatories. There are five Bhatories in the valley namely Sural Bhatori, Hudan Bhatori, Parmar Bhatori, Hillu-Twan Bhatori and Chask Bhatori.
